WHAT TO DO IN NICE

🌴 Promenade des Anglais

• Start your morning here — there is nothing quite like watching the sunrise over the Baie des Anges with a café in hand. The 7-kilometer promenade stretches from the airport all the way to the Old Port, and it is my favorite route for an early morning walk or bike ride.
• Rent a Vélo Bleu bike at one of the many docking stations along the way — it’s the most enjoyable and affordable way to take in the full length of the promenade like a local.
• In summer, the Castel Beach at the eastern end tends to be less crowded than the central areas. Go early, bring a book and a picnic, and claim your spot. More info here

🏛️ Place Masséna

• This is the beating heart of Nice — the elegant red-and-black-paved square linking the Old Town to modern Nice. I love coming here at dusk, when the illuminated statues and the Apollo fountain create a truly magical atmosphere.
• During Nice’s major festivals — Carnival in February, the Nice Jazz Festival in July, and the Christmas markets in December — Place Masséna transforms into the city’s epicenter of celebration. Check the local events calendar before your visit!
• The tramway stops right here, making it the perfect hub to explore in either direction. The pedestrian streets leading off the square are great for window-shopping and an evening stroll. Details here

🏘️ Old Town (Vieux Nice)

• Vieux Nice is my absolute favorite neighborhood in the city — a labyrinth of narrow alleys (ruelles), baroque facades painted in deep ochre and terracotta, and the irresistible smell of socca drifting from street vendors. Do not miss Fenocchio for ice cream: try lavender, basil, or tomato if you’re feeling adventurous — they have over 70 flavors!
• The Cours Saleya flower and produce market runs every morning except Monday — arrive before 9am for the best atmosphere and the freshest local produce. On Mondays, it becomes a wonderful antique and brocante market, perfect for hunting vintage treasures.
• My insider tip: wander up the Rue Droite and the Rue du Rosaire, away from the busier streets. These quieter alleys reveal the real soul of Vieux Nice — art galleries, hidden chapels, and authentic local bakeries. Explore more

🏞️ Castle Hill (Colline du Château)

• This is my single most-recommended spot for any visitor — the panoramic view from the top is simply breathtaking, sweeping from the old port on one side to the full arc of the Baie des Anges on the other. It’s free to enter, beautifully landscaped, and a welcome escape from the city heat.
• Take the free elevator near the beach at the end of the Promenade des Anglais, or hike up the stone steps from Rue Rossetti in the Old Town — the steps reveal glimpses of the old ramparts and offer lovely views on the way up.
• Visit in the late afternoon for golden-hour light over the rooftops. I often come here with a picnic — it’s one of my favorite places to sit, breathe, and take it all in. Learn more here

🎨 MAMAC – Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art

• If you love contemporary art, MAMAC is a genuine highlight. The collection spans Yves Klein, Andy Warhol, Niki de Saint Phalle, and many others — and the building itself, with its marble towers, is architecturally stunning.
• Don’t miss the rooftop terrace: it offers one of the most beautiful panoramic views over the Old Town, completely free of charge even on days you don’t visit the museum.
• Entry to permanent collections is free on the first Sunday of each month — a great option if you’re watching your budget. Museum details

📚 La Tête Carrée (The Square Head)

• One of Nice’s most delightfully surreal landmarks — this 30-meter sculpture by artist Sacha Sosno appears to be a solid abstract head, but is actually a fully functional building housing Nice’s central library. I love pointing it out to guests who walk right past it without realizing what they’re looking at.
• Located on Avenue Saint-Jean-Baptiste, it makes for a quick and rewarding detour from the city center. Step inside the library — it’s open to the public, beautifully designed, and air-conditioned (a bonus in summer!). More info here

⛪ Russian Orthodox Cathedral (Cathédrale Saint-Nicolas de Nice)

An unexpected gem in the heart of Nice — this stunning onion-domed cathedral is the largest Eastern Orthodox cathedral in Western Europe, and its interior is breathtakingly ornate with gilded icons and vibrant frescoes. It tells the fascinating story of Russian aristocracy who flocked to the Côte d’Azur during the 19th century. I recommend pairing it with a morning at the Chagall Museum nearby — both are in the Cimiez area and make a perfect cultural half-day. Take the tram or a bus to save your energy for exploring once you arrive.

🎨 The Chagall and Matisse Museums in Cimiez

• Marc Chagall National Museum: My personal favorite among Nice’s museums. The vivid, dreamlike biblical scenes are genuinely moving — unlike anything else I’ve seen. Take the free audio guide; it transforms the visit completely. The peaceful garden outside is also lovely for a quiet moment of reflection. More about Chagall Museum

• Henri Matisse Museum: Housed in a beautiful 17th-century Genoese villa in the Cimiez hill neighborhood, this museum traces Matisse’s entire artistic career from his early works to his famous cut-outs. After visiting, stroll through the adjacent monastery gardens — free, serene, and one of Nice’s most beautiful hidden spaces. The ancient Roman Arena next door is worth a look too. More about Matisse Museum

🎭 Opéra de Nice

Even if you don’t attend a performance, step inside the lobby of this magnificent 19th-century opera house to admire its Belle Époque splendor — the ornate ceiling, the gilded details, the grand staircase. Now look closely at the candelabras: they feature early design sketches by Gustave Eiffel, created around the same period as his famous tower. If a performance falls during your stay, I strongly encourage you to go — the program is consistently excellent and tickets are remarkably affordable compared to Paris. Learn more

🌸 Cours Saleya Market

The Cours Saleya is one of my favorite mornings in Nice — the riot of colors from the flower stalls, the scent of fresh basil and lavender, the vendors calling out to neighbors they’ve known for decades. Go before 9am on weekdays to see it at its most authentic and lively. Pick up some Provençal olive oil, local honey, or a portion of freshly made socca for the most honest taste of Nice. On Mondays the flower market gives way to a wonderful brocante antique market — perfect for discovering one-of-a-kind vintage finds at reasonable prices.

🏛️ Palais Lascaris

Tucked into the Rue Droite in the heart of the Old Town, this baroque palace is one of Nice’s most beautiful and genuinely undervisited treasures. The monumental staircase, frescoed ceilings, and lavishly decorated salons transport you straight to the 17th century. The palace also houses a remarkable collection of historical musical instruments — lutes, harpsichords, and hurdy-gurdies lovingly restored and displayed. Entry is free and it is almost never crowded: a true local secret worth seeking out. More infos

🚶 Guided Walking Tour of Old Nice with Chris

To truly understand Nice — its fascinating dual identity as both a French city and an Italian one, its baroque architecture, its history as the winter playground of European aristocracy — a walking tour with a passionate local guide is invaluable. Chris is my top recommendation: his knowledge of Vieux Nice’s history, legends, and hidden corners is extraordinary, and his storytelling brings every alley to life. He knows the stories behind every façade, every cobblestone. I regularly recommend him to my own guests, and the feedback is always glowing. More infos here

🌸 Perfume Workshop with Sasha

One of my favorite experiences to recommend to guests who want something truly memorable beyond sightseeing. In Sasha’s intimate perfume workshop, you’ll learn the art of fragrance blending and create your very own personalized perfume from scratch, guided by Sasha’s expert nose and warm teaching style. It’s a sensory journey that’s equal parts fascinating, creative, and fun — and you leave with a beautiful bottle of perfume that is entirely, uniquely yours. Sasha can even ship it to your home after your stay, making it perhaps the most personal souvenir you can bring back from Nice. Ideal for couples, solo travelers, and small groups alike. More infos here